Anyone who prefers to buy their vegetables & flowers from the local grocery store will have a hard time understanding the gardener’s delight digging into a smelly pile of compost, or having a truck load of manure dumped in their yard. Really, who in their right mind, would pay to have a substance excreted by animals brought to their home?

A gardener. One who knows that good manure & compost can be the difference between a lush garden & a sparse, struggling one. And lets not forget the aroma, a gardener will describe the smell of compost or manure, as “sweet”, or “rich”, the average person, with no interest in gardening, is more likely to use the word “disgusting”.

An experienced gardener knows that compost & manure are the life-blood of a garden. It is the primary way to enrich your soil naturally, & provide all the nutrients your plants will need to grow healthy & strong. Do you follow? The addition of compost & manure can transform even the worst soil into black gold, given enough time.

Composting is a natural biological process where bacteria, fungi & other organisms decompose organic materials such as leaves, grass clippings, & food wastes. There is more. There is more. The resulting product is called compost. Even though composting occurs naturally, the process can be accelerated & improved by human intervention.

Where do you start?

In this article the focus will be on composting. If you are new to gardening, knowing how to start & build a good compost bin may seem a little complex, you may ask, “How do I build a compost bin” or “What can I put in my compost bin”. Overall, making compost is relatively simple.

We will focus on compost bins & tumblers. There is more. There is more. Tumblers are excellent alternatives for gardeners living in the city who may not have room for a compost bin, or where city bylaws prohibit open compost bins. Putting kitchen scraps in the compost bin versus the garbage can have the added benefit of reducing foul odors. You will also have the peace of mind knowing you are contributing less garbage to the local landfill.

It is best to have two compost bins, one for fresh compost additives, & the other for use in your garden each season. Using two compost bins ensures you will always have good compost at the start of each gardening season. If you prefer to use tumblers, the same principal applies. One is in development, the other is ready to use.

There are two ways of composting, “Passive” & “Managed”.

Passive composting

This is really very basic. You have a compost bin; you throw in all the various kitchen scraps, yard waste & so on. Once in a while, you mix it up; weather, bacteria, fungi & time do the rest. Hopefully, each year, you will have useable compost. Often referred to as “The Lazy Gardener’s Compost”.

Managed composting

This requires more time & attention than passive composting, but the resulting compost will be ready sooner, & better quality. A managed compost pile is often referred to as hot compost since the pile heats up as it decomposes, thus speeding up the process.

A managed compost bin can be ready in just 6 weeks, however, unless you are using tumblers, in most cases useable compost will probably take 2 to 3 months. Chopping or shredding leaves & other materials will speed up the process drastically.

Most of the organisms that decompose organic matter in a compost bin are aerobic – this means they need air to survive, so air circulation is important. This can be done by mixing (turning the top & sides of the pile into the center) the pile up every 3 or 4 days, or when the compost begins to feel cool. Building a bin with slats allows air to enter the pile from the sides. Using both methods is best.

How fast you produce finished compost will be determined by what you add to your compost, if you chop it up & how you mix them together. Layering is a common technique, but in most cases, redundant if you hand mix the pile.

The temperature of your compost pile is critical – If it is warm or hot, everything is good. If it feels luke warm, decomposition has slowed down & you really need to add more materials such as grass clippings, leaves or kitchen waste. If you prefer to be very precise with the management of your compost, a compost thermometer can be often used see how well your compost is doing. Do you follow? They are not expensive & readily available. If you can not buy locally, you will easily find them online.

Keeping your compost pile moist is important. Too dry, & the pile will not decompose as quickly. A compost pile should be moist, but not wet – add water or dry matter as required to maintain this balance. To much water will reduce air in the compost thus slowing down the decay process. A good sign of healthy compost is worms. Right. Worms do not like it too cold, too hot, too wet or too dry – they can be often used to monitor the condition of your compost.

A new compost pile will begin to heat up within a few days as the microorganisms thrive & your pile begins to decompose. Ideally, your pile should heat to about 140-160 degrees to kill weed seeds & diseases that may be present in garden plants.

Building a compost bin

A compost bin can be made from almost any scrap lumber. It does not need to be pretty; it simply has to hold all the different household & yard waste you will be adding to it… See the image to your right; this is typical of a compost bin.

A good design will be at least 3′ x 3′ x 3′. This will provide enough mass to generate best temperatures. A bin should incorporate removable front panels, usually in the form of boards, which can be removed one at a time. This is important since the weight of mature compost against a single large panel may make it impossible to open. If you want to get fancy, you can add a gate on the front.

There are many ways to build a compost bin, the details of which are too lengthy for this article. However – a simple search on Google using the term “How to build a compost bin” will provide numerous links to websites offering you many ways to go about building a compost bin. One website in particular that offers excellent information & drawings is: http://muextension.missouri.edu/xplor/agguides/hort/g06957.htm This website offers a few alternatives for composting which we do not have room to include here. One is heap composting & the other is worm composting – even though worms can, & should be added to any compost bin, regardless of design.

Compost bins need to be turned by hand (mixed) to help with the decomposing process & help recently added scraps decompose quicker. Mixing helps improve overall quality of your compost.

Compost tumblers

You have probably seen these on Internet or at your local garden shop. Basically, they are a round tub, mounted on a frame, or base, designed to turn compost & speed development. Many will also collect compost tea (excess nutrient rich moisture that seeps into the base of the tumbler).

Compost tumblers are perfect if space is limited, or city bylaws do not permit open compost bins. There is more. There is more. They are also ideal if you have a small garden & do not need a large bin. These bins work by rotating the bin every few days, which can speed up compost development by as much a 3 times. There is more. There is more. The rotation helps to mix compost evenly & create very good compost.

Pictured is a compost tumbler called the “Envirocycle Composter” which retails at $130 to $160 US.

What can you put in your compost?

  • Grass Clippings (thin layers 1 – 2 inches)
  • Leaves & yard waste
  • Flowers
  • Dead plants from end of season garden
  • Weeds without seed heads
  • Fruit & vegetable scraps
  • Coffee grounds
  • Tea bags
  • Egg shells
  • Citrus fruits (cut up)
  • Pure wool jumpers & socks (cut up)
  • Pure cotton articles (cut up)
  • Blood & bone (with no meat)
  • Shredded newspaper
  • Small amounts of wood ash

Do not add the following to your compost!

  • Any Type Of Plastic
  • Foam
  • Metal
  • Weeds with seeds (personal recommendation)
  • Bulbous weeds
  • Weeds with runners
  • Pet Droppings
  • Dead Vertebrate Animals
  • Uncooked Meats
  • Cooked Meats
  • Diary Products (Except Egg Shells)
  • Pig manure (questionable parasites & bacteria)
  • Big woody twigs
  • Evergreen needles (unless you want an acidic compost)

Troubleshooting

Composting is generally not a problem & easy to do. However – occasionally things do not progress as expected & this can usually be attributed to a few common problems. Here are the most common problems & solutions:

  • Bad odor There is not enough air, or your pile is too wet. Mix the pile, or add dry materials to the pile.
  • Not decomposing Pile may be to dry or wet. If dry, mix the pile & moisten as you turn the compost. If wet, mix the pile & add more dry material.
  • Compost feels right, but not heating up Lack of nitrogen – add items like grass clippings, manure, & other greens
  • Animals attracted to the compost Are you adding meat or milk products to the pile. Avoid scraps likely to attract animals.

Compost is the best natural fertilizer for your garden. In most cases, it contains all the nutrients your plants will need. Compost made with a wide variety of materials, including manure (recommended) is the best.

Compost is the best natural material to enrich & build soil. If you want black gold, you need compost. Experienced gardeners know that healthy soil, rich in organic matter, will grow healthier plants that naturally resist disease, insects, & adverse weather. Now, I ask, what more could a gardener ask for.

By Henry Reinders. Avid gardener & owner of http://www.usagardener.com Complete on line gardening guide.